Satisfaction Guaranteed
<editor's note> Maybe this wouldn't win an Oscar, or be the best movie of the year; but it's definitely got it's place. Maybe the club ought to buy a copy as a Xmas gift for Bob and Ed? This column originally appeared in the Morning Advertiser. 4 Dec 2002 By Roger Protz </editor's note>
From cellar to glass, new Cask Marque video deals with the quality of the pint served in the pub Watching a video on a wet Thursday in November on the need to keep beer lines clean doesn't sound the most riveting viewing of the year. But while Cask Marque's new production -- Satisfaction Guaranteed: A Bar Person's Guide to Real Beer -- may not match the latest James Bond epic for excitement it is one of the most important production's of the year. It's not just about beer lines. From cellar to glass, it's concerned with the quality of the pint served in the pub. The format is both professional and entertaining. By using video, Cask Marque, the industry-supported body set up to improve the quality of cask beer in pubs, knows it will reach people who do not have the time or the patience to wade through pamphlets or booklets. When he launched the video last week, Cask Marque's director Paul Nunny made the telling point that one bad pint of beer could mean that the pub in question has lost a customer for good while cask beer in general may have lost a drinker to lager or nitro-keg. Everyone's a loser. The beer business has changed so dramatically in recent years that quality of service and product are now paramount. In the early days of Camra in the 1970s I was sent to carry out the first survey of pubs on the Channel Islands for the Good Beer Guide. In pub after pub I was served warm, cloudy beer. In one case, the beer had a hop leaf floating on top. Complaints were met with the response: "That's the way real ale is meant to be served." Time has moved on. Mass advertising that concentrates on cool, clear pints has changed consumer conceptions of what constitutes acceptable beer. Cask beer's position has changed equally dramatically. While many regional and micro-brewers are seeing a revival of their fortunes, with cask beer sales clambering out of a black hole, it's now a niche product rather than a mass market one. In the age of global brewing giants and pub chains driven by maximising profits, a perishable product such as live cask beer will never be a big volume sector again. That is why it's essential to the survival of the independent brewing sector that cask beer is seen as a quality product. The Cask Marque video, produced with the expertise of the Sky Pub Channel, addresses the problem brilliantly by showing how beer is made and looked after in the cellar. It covers the essential tasks of tapping and venting casks, ensuring that cellars are spotlessly clean and hygienic. It also deals with the right and wrong ways to pull pints at the bar, and the necessity for bar staff to be warm, friendly, engaged, and knowledgeable about the beers they serve. And it points to the all the modern technology available -- such as pythons with cool water wrapped round beer lines, and coolers fitted under beer engines at the point of dispense -- to help deliver perfect pints every time. It's a skilful production. It's not hectoring. It's not telling grannies how to suck eggs, talking down to hard-pressed licensees and bar staff. The approach is informal, chatty and amusing. Attractive young brewers and those that run pubs are used to good effect to drive home the message that beer quality is paramount. Beer is never off duty: yanking too hard on a pump handle can disturb the sediment down below, while forgetting to replace the hard peg at the end of a session can lead to an entire cask going flat. It was fitting that the launch of the video was held at Fuller's Brewery in west London. The brewery has invested massively in beer quality in recent years, so such effect that London Pride and its other brands are now national best sellers, bucking the downward trend of cask beer sales. I cannot recommend the video too highly. It's essential viewing. It costs £10 plus VAT and postage: full details are available from 01206 752212 or www.cask-marque.co.uk. All of us who care passionately about saving cask beer will benefit from seeing the video and ensuring that never again will warm soapy pints with hop leafs on top cross the bar.
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