Sanitizer Trick
by Kevin Jones

Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:17:00 -0500
From: "Kevin Jones" 
Subject: 4 Inch PVC Sanitizer

OK...I got lots of responses for details on my design for a 4 inch PVC
container for sanitizer.  Thanks for the interest.  Its always nice when you
feel like you have come up with a new idea to help make better beer.

First the disclaimers.   1. All you engineers, plumbers, etc please feel
free to help perfect the design/terminology.  2.  I have only used this
system with StarSan.  3.  I accept all slings and arrows that come my way as
long as they are constructive to the goal we all share...Better Beer!

As mentioned in my earlier posting, I wanted a way to submerge long items
(spoons, canes, hoses etc) in sanitizer without wasting so much StarSan and
also make it easier to get long hoses filled without having to coil them in
a bucket.  I built a 4 foot high tube with 4 inch PVC.  I included a screen
plunger on a pole that rests on the bottom so the submerged items can be
raised up out of the sanitizer for easy reach.  I attached the tube to the
legs of my wooden mashing platform with 4 inch worm gear clamps.  For a
visual, it works like the jar at the barbershop full of blue juice and
combs.

The Details
Make the tube whatever length suits your needs/equipment.  Mine is about 4
feet high.  I made the first one with a screw plug (I think the plumbing
term is "clean out").  This was not as good as I had hoped.  It added cost,
weight, and potential leak areas.  Also, with the plug threads tight enough
not to leak , it is really hard to remove again.  My original thought was
the "clean out" would be helpful in emptying and cleaning the tube.  The
second one I made only has an end cap.  I recommend this simpler design.  So
far that's about 4 feet of 4 inch PVC with an end cap glued onto it.  If you
have never worked with PVC, it is very easy.  Follow the directions on the
glue can.

The real trick to this system is the plunger used to lift the items out of
the sanitizer.  I used 5 feet of 1 inch PVC, a 1 inch end cap, a 4 inch PVC
drain, and some fasteners.  Glue the 1 inch end cap on the 1 inch PVC.  The
PVC drain I bought has to be adapted.  It is designed to fit into the 4 inch
PVC.  The drain is open on one end and has a cross hatch drain grid on the
other.  It also has a flange that rests on the edge of 4 inch PVC.  But we
don't want it to rest on the edge, we want it to slide through the tube and
be our basket at the bottom of the tube.  Cut off the flange that keeps the
drain from passing through the 4 Inch PVC.   This is the only part that
takes any craftsmanship whatsoever.  I used a hack saw to rough cut the
flange off close to being flush.  I then use 100 grit sand paper and a
sander to finish it off.  As you work the flange down, you can test fit it
into the 4 inch PVC.  When it slips in and out easily, you are there.  To
clean up the rough texture left by sanding, just give it a quick rub with
some acetone.  Now you have a 4 inch cylinder, about 2 inchs deep, open at
on end and a cross hatch drain pattern on the other.  Using the center hole
in the cross hatch drain pattern, attach the drain to the 1 inch PVC end
cap.  I drilled a pilot hole in the end cap, then use a wood screw and large
washer ( have not found metal fasteners that don't turn back in the StarSan,
I could use some advice here) to make the attachment. You should now have a
long (5 feet) PVC pole with a drain attached to the end that will just slide
into and all the way down into the 4 inch PVC tube.  All the materials are
on the same aisle at Home Depot except the fasteners.

Mount in a vertical position in whatever manner suits your brewery.  I used
one or two 4 inch worm gear clamps.  I put 5/8 ID vinyl hose over the clamps
to give it some grip, then screwed them to my mash stand.  Drop the tube
through the clamps and tighten the clamps. I don't get the clamps too tight
which makes it easier remove for draining and cleaning.  Next fill with
sanitizer and you are ready. I haven't measured it but I think mine holds
about 2 gallons.  From time to time I check the pH of the solution and add
fresh StarSan (as recommended by StarSan) as needed to get back below 3,
usually closer to 2.  When the solution starts looking bad, dump it.

One more Item you want to purchase on the PVC aisle are some plastic plugs
that fit the 4 inch PVC.  I think they are called "knock outs".  Use the
knock outs for lids, covering the tubes when not using the system.  This
helps to keep the bugs (big flying kind) out of the solution.  I don't know
about anyone else's experience, but flies seem to be attracted to StarSan.
It kills them too, and at proper pH I have to believe that even a dead fly
in the sanitizer does not invalidate its purpose, but I hate to see a dead
bug in my sanitizer anyway.  Hum...Dead Fly Ale....on second thought, maybe
not.

Someone asked about slime build up on things left in StarSan.  This is a
problem.  When not brewing, I take everything, including the plungers, out
and hang them up to dry.  They are coated with StarSan, which according to
the manufacture helps prevent contamination even during dry storage.
Anyway, when ready to brew, insert the plunger first, then just drop
everything in.  For hoses, I usually bend them in half, then submerge bend
first.

One thing I have not done yet is locate a cheap brush that would work well
to clean out the inside of the tubes.  I'm thinking a long handled toilet
brush, but haven't really looked yet.

Please let me know your Ideas.  Wish I could add some pics.  With all the
talk about upgrading/funding the hbd, adding the capability to show pictures
this is something to consider.

I have to go out-of-town for a few days, so give me some time to catch up to
the e-mail/hbd postings when I get back.

Drink Better Beer!
Kevin Jones
Music City Brewers

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